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Crafts >> Craft Profiles >> Chikankari

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Chikankari

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Chikankari

Chikankari is a fine and intricate embroidery done by white untwisted yarn on muslins. The word Chikan appears to have had its origin in Persia, being derivative of ‘chakin’ or ‘chakeen’, meaning the rendering of delicate patterns on fabric. Folklore attributes the origin of Chikankari to Queen Noor Jehan, Mughal Emperor Jehangir’s wife, who, inspired by Turkish embroidery, introduces this needlework to India.

The stitches employed in Chikankari are unique and can be divided into three categories: Flat stitches, which are delicate and subtle; Embossed stitches which are highlighted from the fabric surface, and Jali work where the fabric is broken into holes by ‘teasing’ the warp and weft yarns and holding them in position by small stitches, to give it a delicate net effect.

The different types of Chikan work done today are Taipchi,Bakhia, Phunda, Murri, Jaali, Hathkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, Chana Patti etc.while the most popular motif used is that of a

Chickankari

creeper. Among the floral motifs embroidered, the jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus and the paisley motif are the most popular.

Chikan embroidery is a laborious and time-consuming task. The craftsmen are trained for about 15-20 years and sometimes it takes 10-15 days to complete an entire Chikan ensemble.


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